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Wella Developers
A developer, also called an oxidant or peroxide, is the part of a permanent hair colour that makes the colour work. Wella Professionals developers are made to be mixed with Wella hair colour and lightening products, so mixing ratio and strength stay predictable. The range includes Welloxon Perfect developers in several strengths, from low volumes for tone on tone colouring to higher ones for lifting. Below you can read how to choose the right strength and what to check before you mix.
What does a developer do in hair colour?
A developer contains hydrogen peroxide in a cream or liquid base. Mixed with a colour cream or lightening powder, it starts the oxidation process that opens the hair cuticle and develops the colour. The strength is shown as a percentage (for example 3%, 6%, 9% or 12%) or in volumes. A higher percentage lifts more natural pigment, but it is also more demanding on the hair and scalp. Which strength you need depends on the starting shade, the target shade and whether you want to cover grey. A developer is not a colour on its own and does not do anything without a colour or lightening product. Always follow the mixing ratio on the colour packaging, because it differs per line.
Choosing the right developer strength
Lower strengths of around 1.9% to 3% are used for tone on tone colouring and for toning, where you deposit colour without lifting much. Around 6% is the usual choice for covering grey and lifting one to two levels. Strengths of 9% and 12% are meant for greater lift, mostly in combination with permanent colour or lightener. More lift means more strain on the hair, so choose the lowest strength that still reaches the result you want. If you are unsure, check the shade chart of the colour line you are using, as it usually states the recommended developer.
Tips for mixing
Use a non-metallic bowl and measure the ratio with a scale or measuring cup. Mix until smooth and apply straight away, as the mixture loses strength over time. Never store a mixed batch.
Using developers safely
Do a patch test 48 hours before colouring if the client has not used the product before. Wear gloves and avoid contact with eyes. Keep bottles tightly closed and out of heat and direct light, because peroxide loses strength over time. Developers are meant for professional use according to the instructions, so read the label before you start. They are not suitable for use on a scalp that is irritated or damaged.